Works really well. (Jointer/planer) Find places like Rosewood, take a course from a fantastic teacher who knows hand tools thoroughly, and buy some good ones youll be amazed at the things you can do and how beautiful they en up being. This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. We can build you a custom length chain for your saw and bar setup in house. For example, a dip in the middle is fine, because its not going to affect how the board goes through. This Japanese built machine is solid cast iron and made to last. Its a good technique thats easy to learn. Most people dont want to hear that because it involves work. Nowadays, I read many thing about this issue. I have learned how to deal with these issues, though. Duh, learn to review your own work before quacking about another. Pick whichever is most important to you or will save you the most amount of work, and start making some sawdust. I could then use the router or tablesaw to joint the edges. After the last cabinet I built, I made a committment to myself to stop working with sheet goods and focus on building furniture made from solid wood so my planer will definately see more use; however, its still so much more efficient to put a flat and square side on a piece of stock even if Im going to turn to using hand planes that I doubt Id ever stop using my jointer. I went for the jointer first because I had access to a friends portable planer. I have not tried this either, but the jig where you swipe your router back and forth across the whole face of the board seems like it would work. In a word Awesome. Admittedly none of these solutions are perfect but remember, this is a temporary situation. I highly recommended it. Ill go with the planer, probably a makita since i cant find Dewalt planers here. The jointer fits 1.0 of the needs. The sled should have a stop block or use double faced tape to keep your lumber from sliding on the sled. I dont think we have enough information to properly advise Doug yet. 20 inch jointer with 20 inch planer below. If you were going to choose between a planer and jointer, which one would come first? Maybe 0.001 or 0.0005? This can be done with a planer only by building yourself a sled out of say 3/4 mdf. Jointer second, then planer. We keep a good inventory of spiral cutterheads for the most popular jointers, planers from SCM, Felder, *** Call or Text 7057344841, Email can't be replied to *** Makita 2030 Planer + Jointer, 2 HP, 220 Volts, 5' Bed Needs new Planer rollers. Until then, the planer will provide a lot of additional functionality that can make a real difference in your productivity. You cant use the jointer to plane. With the planer, I can get nice parallel flat faces and mill the board to the desired thickness. These days in many North American areas used jointers and planers are abundant. Ad will be removed once sold. I can select flat boards, but I dont want to wear out a sander. That sounds like a lot of work to me David. Then you can use the now true edge to run along the jointers fence to plane the other side of the board so that you can plane in the correct grain direction. Sorry Im going on. 38" long heavy duty fence. Bob. Consider buying used if you cant afford both a planer and jointer new. Came from the factory set up and works like a dream. My experience says if Doug does a lot of general woodworking, get the planer first. I tried putting in planer vs. jointer on the woodwhisperer but ran into just a bunch of ads that really started confusing more more than anything when I was reading the replies. For me, the decision is based on functionality. It would be slow, and has the potential to leave high spots that would mess with the planing, but I know people who swear by it. I have put serious thought into this as well so for anyone out there here is what my final decision is gonna be. Given that these tools are very expensive, it isnt surprising that most of us will only be able to afford one tool at a time. If you run the other rough face on the jointer, you can certainly make it flat but you wont make it parallel to the first face. 3HP motor. I have set aside some money for this project, so while I know the unit is expensive, it does seem to be good solution to the problem (space and 12 inch capacity) and from a quality company. The JJP is a quiet hum, its an incredible difference, and the Jet is 3HP! Use Distance Search to find Ads based on where you are and how far you want to travel. I would get the jointer first, then after a week youll wish you had gotten the planer first then get a planer. Its like moving up from an iPhone camera to a DSLR. Best alternative: Just give up and get a jointer to go with the planer. You lay your lumber with the cupped face up and shim under the high points. I applaud your comment so much so that I am posting this, and I NEVER comment on anything. It is an older or cheaper model and I have noticed issues. Videos on YouTube can be extremely handy for helping you see what exactly can be done with each tool. If you have not given hand planes a shot, try it, youll love it. Of course your edges will still be rough. I would advice against buying dimensioned lumber (s2s or s4s) at the home center unless you absolutely have to. There are indeed some occasions when we plane things that are way wider than the capacity of our jointers. 6 inch tabletop jointer/planer made by King Canada. My portable planer is a 20 YO Ryobi 10 that does all the small work, I love it. with a getting boards the same thickness that is less important to me because you can have them done at a local cabinet shop or at a saw mill for little money. KC-12HJPC, FORESTWEST 6" 1.5HP Jointer with Built-in Dust Chute, FORESTWEST 12" 2.5HP Wood Thickness Planer & Jointer Combo, KING CANADA Folding Roller Stand No. Why, here is the why: making sleds for the planer is hard, they are NEVER true, can NEVER make a twisted board truely parallel. Doing it often will make you fit as well. Once the boards are lined up, this process is pretty quick. All rights reserved. I picked up a decent used 6 jointer on Craigslist last year for $80, but after looking in vain for over a year I finally just found a used DeWALT DW735 planer on Craigslist for what I consider to be a reasonable price: $260. I would certainly like to hear more about the Jet combination machine. As far as a jointer, I would go out to an antique store or auction or ebay and buy a #7 jointer plane. But I cant quite picture in my head how youre holding the wood in place. I just bought the LN planes because I am on the slllliiiiiipppppeeeerrrrryyyy slope of hand planes. I use a lot of reclaimed timber and the planer (we call them thicknessers down here) has paid for itself dozens of times over. **Pick-up in Strathcona SW, Cash Only** Corded Black & Decker planer, works well. So, you have 2.0 needs. Machinists typically have no idea about woodworking, only using a machine. and I still dont have a jointer but i can make do. Priced new at $800.00 Planer is in excellent condition.. Is registered for lifetime warranty. Youll learn about wood too, sensitivity and feel for the grain. I think that that video definitely helped and yes, it was pretty much what Id thought. The planer served me faithfully for many years, but a couple of months ago I accidentally wrecked the feeder rollers. In my opinion, you should purchase the planer first. :-), This wasnt an easy financial decision to make, but after thinking about it for years I finally bit the bullet and got what Ive always wanted. I would go with the planer first. Priced the same as our regular 3/8 chain. Doug. So much of what I have been building this year involves using sheet goods and dimensioned lumber that the jointer gets used to put a straight edge on things as well as prep for glue ups etc, whereas the planer only gets used when Im dimensioning stock or dealing with rough material. You eventually need to do both (make it flat and parallel) but there are ways to accomplish or work around one without the other. But if you are serious about woodworking, and think this will be a lifetime hobby, take a look at one of these $5000 best woodworking tools in the world This is true because of the design of a thickness planer. To clean those up you have several options: trim with a circular saw and a saw guide, trim at the table saw with a jointing jig, trim with a hand plane, or trim at the router table. 2-table saw: rip to final width and joint to smooth the edge The lunchbox planers can be had for about $100 used and the decent-quality 6 jointers can be had for about the same. Considering plywood cabinet sides are generally under 3 feet on an edge, the jointer is a quick and easy tool to do this with. A simple router jig or planner sled jig will give you the first smooth face so that your planner can parallel off of it to create your second flat and smooth surface. Thank you for making this possible. Then send it through the planer to flatten one face. In the end, you can have 4 flat slides but dont have any guarantee that the sides would be parallel to each other??? But, if you need both of them planer and thicknesser, you always have the option to acquire a combined machine (with planer and thicknesser). Although it will take longer than using a jointer, you can build a sled for your planer and joint a straight, flat face. I am wondering if anyone has had any experience with the the Jet combination Jointer Planer since this post? I need to take them down to finished 1.753.5. I bought my jointer first just because it was a offer I could not refuse, and I thought that if I was careful and pay good attention that I would be able to get a flat board using a jointer. This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. You will cut your joints and then find that the whole table (or whatever youre building) is slightly out of whack. They are really taking off in popularity and I do think you will enjoy the extra capacity for jointing. ), I purchased the jointer first. You cannot get a true flat side with a power planer due to the fact that the board will either run on the ends or the middle. I am probably in the odd minority here but I think its sad, if not disgraceful, that you have to buy two extremely expensive (at least for my way of thinking) contraptions just to be at a decent starting point. http:.//jszcbf.wordpress.com. Rehab it and put a good iron in it and you will be good to go. To learn more about this process, check out this video on Milling Lumber. I have have both now but had a jointer first and I ether flattened them buy hand with a belt sander or hand plane but also took them to my local cabinet shop and had them planed. This is fine if Im planing something narrower than 3 or 4. You can always buy dimensioned lumber but what you can. For anyone in my situation I would definitely suggest getting a jointer first, planer second. That one is very easy to justify with a spouse, since dust is carcinogenic. So if it has 12 blades on it, you have a 12 jointer in one mode, and a 12 planer in the other. I would definitely agree with Marc. Dont forget to shop for used tools on CL and similar. Dont write comments that make no sense. The first thing I purchased was a Ryobi 12 planer ( or more commonly known as a thicknesser here in Australia). As I plan for retirement sometime in the not too distant future, I am setting up my hobby workshop. But the jointer is really under rated these days! Who elected you the forum professor? But thats just my opinion. I never had the room before but built a bigger wood shop. 2-3 used or lower end planes $200-300. And I suppose, that if the board you were using, wasnt wider than this wide rotating blade thingie, it could in theory, plane this boards face and back too, although if it was really long, the cup and convexity of the board would not be truly planed like the area that you shoved the board through, like in the first part of my example. Im debating whether to start out with a planer (that seems to have been the most popular answer here versus a jointer) or getting a combo planer/jointer. I know this message will not help you as you are beyond help, but I write this for anyone else who stumbles on this post. Like make a 45 degree cut on an 8 board all the way down. Plane to get the faces parallel then use a guided circular saw to put the first straight edge on the board. C. Your comment was also highly inaccurate and could mislead future readers. Crappy hand tools are bad as a friend and I found out while taking part of the Fine Furniture making course at Rosewood Studios in Almonte, Ontario. Mortise table on back of machine. While I never made much practice of jointing plywood to remove saw marks when making cabinets, some people do and it really wrecks the jointer knives. I am purchasing a cnc and was wondering which would be better a jointer or planer I would like to glue pieces together to make approximately 20 in wide stock to mill u feel that as long as one side is flat the thickness isnt as important it would be milled its a different question but just wondering what feed back I could get, I bought a combi Sedgwick planer/thicknesser How many custom wood workers these days uses hand tools for everything????? I was skip planning or using a planer sled with my DeWalt and my TS55REQ to edge joint it took all day. Instead of a jointer I just have a very nice, sharp blade on my small Delta TS. I did ALL of the jointing (face and edge) and the planning on ALL of the wood required for Marcs chest of drawers in a couple of hours that afternoon.
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