This is a woodworking drill press, so the spindle speeds are substantially higher than what you really want for metalworking. Not cheap but I only paid $300 for the drill press so I think it was worth it. I really like to increase power as I increase down pressure, and also use a soft touch while tapping, as well as reversing instantly. Thanks for posting and the documentation! I expect it to last the rest of my life. I've cut over 100 holes without having to sharpen anything! The motor has a 4.5" raised flange centered around the 7/8" shaft and a 4 hole bolt hole pattern. I was going through 3/4 inch drill bits about once a month after drilling a couple of dozen holes. Nice conversion. Required fields are marked *. A nice problem to have.. JavaScript is disabled. A good thing to remember if you're doing something like this is to be sure to get the zinc pulleys as they are very easy to bore out. one small thing i would like to see is possibly the allen head adjustment screws changed out for thumb screws, but that is a minor nit-pick and something i can do myself. It's a tight fit and there's no room to really route the wires as neatly as I would like, but it works. on Introduction, I love this modification.. jist a tip though use some kind of cutting fluid when drilling steel you will get a lot longer life out of your bits.. keep up the great work. So, the way a drill press works is when you turn it on, you then have to manually spin the Chuck in the direction you want it to spin. The only real tricky part is figuring out which way to install the large motor plate (pillowblocks facing forward vs. facing rearward) as this will affect the belt lengths and tension that you can apply to the forward belt that turns the drill spindle. It may not display this or other websites correctly. First we mounted the stator holder on top of the bearing holder. think about how much torque those things produce is such a small package. On top of the fast shipping it also ended up costing more than I paid. Great customer service, and quick shipping, has this in under a week to Alberta, Canada. I like the setup you have for the jackshaft that makes everything nice and smooth. First drilling i did with the slower speed really highlighted the torque increase. I wish I could have had you make duplicates of all your parts while you were at it.I have the exact same drill press. I tried it both ways, and ended up with the pillowblocks facing forward as shown. You will still need to install an on off switch. The outer casing is the hub containing all the magnets and its the rotor. Didnt seem real. I don't know anyone who likes changing belts positions to change speed on a drill press. It was not ideal for this use as it only had mounting holes for face mounting, no mounting bracket. I build lightsabers, and I have always hated being at the mercy of shapeways and other suppliers for the little parts that I need. Previously the drillpress was unable to start spining as we turn the switch one, but this time all we need to do is to turn the know to a particular speed and the chuck starts to spin. Building handrails for my boss. For instance, on a piece I was paying $50.00 for, we are doing the drilling in 1 hour with a jig internally, saving jobs and of course money! The speed controller is mounted over the top plate that we have just cut out of plastic sheet to hold everything temporarily. Now to drive the drill chuck we need to mount the rotor on top of the main shaft. First, I am not trying to optimize for cost or whatever here, but just having some fun with one of my home workshop's tools which gets periodic use. The belt size of the kit doesnt need to match your drill press at all. It requires a fair amount of consideration and time spent figuring out how to apply the parts to your specific drill press. I've had my DPRK for about 3 years now. I put it on a Jet 14" bench drill press that had a slow speed of 450rpm. would be a massive upgrade that takes under an hour MAX to install. The ideal place for that is the bearing holder but we have got very limited clearance if we are going to use the three holes that were pre drilled inside the stator. One other thing, just forget about trying to put the top cover back on. It's a generic kit, so it isnt going to fit on every press the same way. next the stator is mounted on the stator holder while making sure that its as centred as possible. I just didnt care about it at all. 2 years ago, Most likely it would be that the starter capacitor has failed, because this is what gets the rotor spinning. The annular cutter is the way to go for making holes but the drill press needs to run at a much lower rate (240-3400 rpm on my Rigid drill press). Now to drive the ESC manually and controll the speed of the motor we are going to use a servo tester thats goin to provide the required PWM controller to the ESC and help us controll the speed of the chuck accurately and yes without messing up with the mehanical pullies or any gear. I would really like to make this project and have the speed adjust ability on my drill press. Nice project. They do not audibly whine like VFDs and they are really easy to set up. wish everything was brushless these days, such great tech. Since I don't have any keyway broaches I did some careful measuring and found that the keyway in the pulley would still be deep enough to accept the key after removing .085" from the bore so I bored it on the lathe. I purchased a 4:1 speed reduction kit for my old Delta 17-900 drill press. https://youtu.be/buIkQn4W9VI. Use lubricant/coolant when drilling metal. I'm really thinking the variable speed of bench top machines would actually work better and easier with battery power. Excellent! I can stall the 2hp motor on my lathe if not in backgear at low rpm. It was easy to install on my PC press. The next step is to install the pillowblock bearings and shaft onto the offset pulley plate. It's up to the buyer to decide where to put each pulley, and at what height. I forgot about dual voltage warts, I may replace my battery with one. Do you know what the hub motor's original specs were for voltage and amps? I'd attach some pictures if I could, but I don't see a spot to do so. To make sure that this hole is exact in the centre we did made final cuts on the lathe machine as there is very limited clearance between the rotor and the stator. This allows you to vary the power while in use in response to the load as needed , like a variable speed portable drill. You must log in or register to reply here. Looks very professional, maybe you have a new sideline. Loop has it right. The final shot (right): The idea here is to rip off the older power house and replace with a much more powerful brushless hub motor from an old hoverboard. Old treadmills with DC motors are often available for free. That might be a fun project. Late 60's Craftsman if memory serves right. My Delta press has gone from a low speed of 250 RPMs to 62.5 RPMs. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Thanks very much for the quality kit! Works with nearly all drill presses. I used some 1/2" X 7" hot rolled plate left over from another project. Smooth! Click on the Tech link below to find out if your drill press works with this kit. It will be nice when we can get out and patronize local businesses again. check out the. Share it with us! Ratted at 10 cells and 350 watts of power initially sounds like good enough but this crap ESC just wasnt able to get the juice out of the hub motor and made us doubt the power of this huge motor. The rotor along with the shafty adapter is then slided onto the shaft and we tightened the mounting nut in place. I had to make a mounting bracket for the box, so I used a piece if 1/8" plate out of my scrap bin and bent it 90 so I could bolt it to the motor mount and the back of the box. 1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator. as we all know, REAL metalworking drill presses are a LOT more money than the woodworking ones (I think I paid maybe $300 for this one brand new). Starter capacitor has failed or if it is centrifugally switched to contacts are dirty or sticking. After thinking about that for a while I decided I wanted the keep the multi groove pulley to allow for the maximum speed adjust-ability. Can you make a diagram, please. Well like all the crazy project ideas we got, there is always a problem waiting right in the middle of the project, so there are two of them. Your email address will not be published. Nice work John. I have a project of drilling around 300 1 1/16" holes into 1.5" schedule 80 316ss pipe. The quality is great. Very impressive. So the plate will be mounted on top of the bearing holder and later we are going to mount the stator on top of the metal plate. Teco drives are pretty reliable. There is not good place to pry under either pulley. It is much quieter than the induction motor that came with the tool. Now these motors are outrunner brushless motor and they can produce a huge amount of torque. Excellent design. You are using an out of date browser. Reply Thanks guys, I think I'll use the drill press alot more now. Now to mount the stator we need to remove the shaft and the holder from the centre of the stator. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); This works great on my Harbor Freight 20" drill press. JavaScript is disabled. Your email address will not be published. So instead of making a customized adapter what we decided to do is to modify the main shaft pully to act as a holder for the rotor. Heres the holes I am trying to drill, and the kit that I received: (Diet Coke not included) Its a very nice product! We made every possible effort to get this thing solved but for the time being the only solution that can help us get through is to grind the rotor!!! I got a 1hr Baldor NOS for $75 shipped about a year ago. Grand L3560 with LA805 loader, EA 55" Wicked Grapple, SBX72 BB, LP 1272 mower. It consists of a large offset pulley mounting plate, and a set of 4:1 ratio pulleys that will cut the speed of the motor down to a fraction of its previous setting (about 25% of original, Id say!). The drill press can go forward or reverse. Each battery is a three cell (11.1v) and thus we have to connect both of them in series. Very satisfied. Not to mention that with the new setup we can control the speed of rotation accurately and without messing up with the belt and pullies as with the previous setup. 2 years ago This will not only reduce the amount of work and the probablity of getting this drill ruined but if we can implement the whole idea sucessfully, the efficiency of this whole powerhouse is going to be preety good, so let hopr for the best. I was recently told to do the same with drill press, but I have very little experience in this area and your post helped me a lot with this. We were able to pull in the drilling we used to outsource (although we are a little slow). Luckily he works here. L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4 shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop, A very clean well thought out mod, I have to as though, what do you have tied up in it, VFD and 1hp 3phase motor, we cant figure in yoru time and odds and ends. The drill press reduction kit is working fantastic. Besided that with the direct drive mechanism not only the noice levels are low but the reliablity of the whole mechanism has been increased significantly. This bolt on kit will double (2:1) or quadruple (4:1) the torque of your drill press at the spindle and cut the RPM by 50-75% (2:1 4:1)! I haven't thought of using an old treadmill motor and variable speed. I machined the holes on the mill using the rotary table attachment on my 8" super spacer. I should be able to use some 18V batteries to get make a battery powered drill press. And yes, they're all slightly different, so you'll have to do the homework you don't want to do. You can get around the low end torque problem of an AC motor, but it gets expensive. The kit included everything I needed and so far it's perfect. I used the belt sander to make a .009" step on one side of the key. Just for kicks, here's a brief summary of the drill press story. i am kinda surprised that you purchased the parts off ebay when they are so readily availible to you locally. Needs a wakeup call everytime we turn on the switch and might fell a sleep drilling holes larger than 10mm. Great addition to the shop, allows much safer and more accurate drilling as well as longer intervals between resharpening. The only thing that I'd say to be aware of is that this kit is not a 30 minute simple bolt-on job. The mechanical parts was in perfect working condition but this thing lacks alot for power. He suggested a 4:1 reduction kit based on my particular drillpress (Delta, Model 17-965) and a few days ago the kit arrived via UPS it gave me some motivation to get back into the shop and start spinning a few wrenches. The other benefit that I havent tested yet is the increase in useable torque. You will also need a three phase motor and 220VAC. Trying to hold the all of those heavy parts up with one arm, while installing nuts and bolts with the other hand is nearly impossible. https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-Univeywords=3+phase+switch&qid=1614108117&sr=8-12, https://www.emotorsdirect.ca/item/teco-rf1-54, https://www.emotorsdirect.ca/item/teco-pdh0034, https://www.amazon.ca/Hallmark-Induords=1.5+electric+motor&qid=1614117088&sr=8-6, https://www.amazon.ca/ALITOVE-Adapter-100-240V-Converter-Security/dp/B07VQHCK6P. You may have to purchase a separate belt if the one we provide does not fit. To test the drill press we charged the batteries and started testing. The previous setup was unable to drill hole above 10mm in metal sheets but with the new powerhouse we first drilled hole upto 20mm using a step bit without any problem. We have worked with the drill press for our upcoming project to drill a bunch of holes in metal tubing and sheets and this thing can hold upto an hour of drilling time which is more than enough for us. After all the aggravations Ive dealt with through the years with the high speed low torque slowest setting of the machine I was blown away. They told me it wouldn't get to me until Tuesday and asked if that was ok or if I wanted a refund. It works awesome. Hmmmm, i was unaware of this possibility. Monday morning I get a delivery with my drill kit!!! First I would like to thank rogue fab for their amazing customer service. Always wondered how you tap with a drillpress ? I've even been able to use the DPRK to set up the speed good enough to mill some aluminum. I received a phone call a few minutes later telling me I had missed the cutoff. yes you have heard it right and yes its crazy. Have you got the drawing on how to re-wire the hub motor? They all assume right hand twist. I'm now down to a cool 112rpm, and ready to start doing a bit of custom fabrication of my own. Overall, the kit looks really good I am actually looking forward to getting back out into the garage again to cut some holes now, so perhaps that is the best feature of all..!!. 580 RPM -> 145 RPM Turned a ordinary drill press into an incredible machine. Highly recommended if you have a wood cutting speed press and want to be able to cut metal too without having two machines. Was a easy install and performs flawlessly. Another thing I learned is that its MUCH easier to install this kit if you lay the drillpress down on its face so that you can work on the motor/plate installation horizontally. The reason being the face that this thing has got plenty of torque and these days you can easily find one for cheap as well. I installed the tach pickup in the lower belt housing and glued the magnet to the spindle pulley. One word of advice i would suggest, i bought a harbor freight 12'' drill press brand new to use this reduction kit on, because it uses metric belts that are slightly smaller than 3/8 i would highly recommend starting off with a drill press with 1/2'' belts as they said on the "tech" portion of the website. But believe its almost impossible to get it solved otherwise as we dont own a lathe at this moment and the lather workers in our area are going to further ruin this whole unit. Since the new motor has a 7/8" (.875") shaft and the old one was 20mm (.790') I planned on just using a single groove pulley on the motor. Each installation will be different. Thanks RogueFab! I did something similar (but a lot less elegant) with my drill press about 10 years ago using a Teco FM50 VFD. Was a transition era design from the 100/150 design to the mid 70's design. It's been trouble free, but as I do a lot of different projects requiring drilling steel, aluminum, plastic and wood, changing the speeds by moving the belts around gets to be a pain in the derriere. IMO, it is a basic necessity when drilling metal, which I do a lot of. I was taught..1 full turn, back a 1/4 turn, repeat,add oil, repeat Do you have special taps for drillpresses ? To controll the speed of the chuck the servo tester is mounted on the left side of the housing where the on/off switch was mounted previously. It would be cut up like crazy and have trouble staying on, I would imagine. Had to fabricate a couple of pieces to get things mounted on a fifty year old craftsman. 1 year ago Fabricating mounts and brackets and whatnot doesn't scare me or drive me away from doing something I just need to weigh the time investment versus buying something that already fits my needs. JavaScript is disabled. I had to modify the pulley's 5mm key to fit the 3/16" groove on the motor shaft. like https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33041320042.html although those don't list any voltage rating so I don't know if they'd actually be compatible with your set up. The spindle pulley fits onto a taper on the spindle. A lack of motivation. I bought a 10" X 10" X 6" case with a hinged cover to mount everything in. Account Upgrades | Donate to Support the Forum! Question Great project! The ability to get my drill press down in to usable RPM for some of my heavier duty projects is exactly what I was hoping for. The idea of being able to drop these speeds in a cost-effective way was very tempting. When my uncle came to see it, he said that the electronics had to be replaced. Also had to buy new belts to get everything to work. Was able to take an under $200 drill press from Lowes and make it into a decent metal cutting machine. I am off to hunt for an old drill press now.. All times are GMT-8. 5 stars for the Drill Press Reduction kit! With all of this additional gear reduction, Ive got a LOT more torque available and I expect that my issues with stalling are over as well. We recently brought a drill press and as we have got a limited budget so that one was found from a scrapyard and later repainted. I didn't understand why, but after a few days our drill press stopped working and I was very scared because I thought I had done something wrong. As you will notice, the kit doesnt really take up too much extra space and tucks-in pretty nicely. Step 1 is pulling the motor from the drillpress, though to be honest I probably could have installed the new plate without unwiring it completely. Next we coupled the rotor to the shafte adapter using six allen screws. Also, it is very important that the shaft size of the kit you order matches your drill press motor. If you want to do it, I would't use anything less than Teco. That's the advantage of a DC motor. Being able to remote the vfd control panel is a nice feature. This is why it doesn't start spinning as soon as you flip the switch. Compared to the previous setup which is corded induction motor so we are bound to stay close to the socket but with the current setup we can operate cordlessly and with aconsiderableweight loss we can now move the drill press arround our workspace as per our convinience of working. I did get good at sharpening my bits but it was a pain. All in all, none of the issues listed above are rogue fabrications fault, they supplied a kit that does exactly as it says, and does it with a very easy and adaptable installation. One suggestion that you might find useful is to parallel wire a pair of foot switches with your forward and reverse switch. Currently the drill is powered by a bulky induction motor, transmitting the power through a pair of pullies that allows to spin the chuck at various speed and torque. The quality of the whole thing is very nice for such an affordable product. I would not have needed to make the mounting bracket if I bought this motor. With the stator rewired and the paint dried we started assembling the motor. The one we initially decided to go with is a cheap Chinese one thats avliable to drive hoverboard motor. This kit is well thought out and came with every thing, including great instructions. You must log in or register to reply here. On to the reduction kit. Its been a rough few weeks and I havent been making any efforts to get out into the garage to work on the truck project. Use low speed when drilling metal - the larger the hole, the lower the speed needs to be. I bought the RogueFab kit and, separately, bought a 6 foot 1 13/16 inch (about 46mm) steel tube and one other 2" pulley. Once I got the nut off and made the pusher slugs it didn't take much force to remove either pulley but I think a puller is needed. Though I have heard that there are now versions that run on 115VAC. Live and learn. I literally just bought an 80's-vintage drill press the same day you started this thread and was already thinking about variable speed control. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. It may not display this or other websites correctly. Thanks guys! I got the motor for $40 and the rest of the stuff including the cable was about $250. probably weather-related, time change.whatever. Nice.. on Step 6. The only other type I found were cast iron and I didn't want to try to alter those. The nut on top of the pulley is left hand thread but is only made of plastic. Did you make this project? Thanks Pete, it was a lot of work but fun work. So we are going to use a 6mm thick metal plate with a dia of 125mm to act as the holder for the stator. This is mostly for fun and to see what all I can do (much like most of us and our E30's). The arbor and everything is in decent shape it just majorly lacks in power and using a power strip for a power switch lately is getting old. Kit bolts on in about 25 minutes with hand tools. 3phase motors are cheap on eBay. To power the brushless motor we are going to use an RC car speed controller rated for 150A and 6 cells(25.2v). Question I made a new control panel and mounting box for the FWD/REV switch, ON/OFF switches, speed control potentiometer and a digital tach display. Now it takes more amount of time for current to travel all three sets as they are connected in series and thus the speed of rotation is very low. I've used it for hole saws, a Procunier No 3 tapping head, and drilling thousands of holes and it hasn't skipped a beat! I haven't checked into it. I did replace the motor on the drill press.from a half horsepower to 1 horsepower. Thank you for sharing how you did it. there is a small 2 new pulley that gets installed on the motor itself, and the pulley stack that used to live on the motor, is transferred on top of that large 8 pulley wheel. Really awesome product, just doesn't work very well with the harbor freight 13" drill press due to the way the belts are tensioned. So I bought a TECO L510 single phase 115 VAC input VFD and a 1.0 hp 56 frame 3 phase motor to make the conversion. Next we mounted the batteries inside the drill press housing thats now empty. This page was generated at 10:36 AM. Makes drilling and tapping a breeze. I used the kit materials and the instructions as a guideline and created what, for my purposes, is a great machine. I've had this project in mind for a while now and finally found great deal on a 1.5 HP three phase motor (thanks Chad).I bought an inexpensive 1.5KW (2 HP) vfd on Amazon as well as an electrical box to house it. Also, I guess there are cheaper options for the ESC than the one you used? I was toying with a conversion myself to 'learn' VFD but some of the disassembly & new mounting issues made me think it wasn't going to be quick job. Drilling holes from 5/8" to 1" in metal used to be a chore, with bits grabbing and getting chipped. Do you know what wattage the motor is? Originally the motor is made for 10 cells which is nearly 42v and provided a decent speed so with the car ESC operating the motor at 6 cells (25.2v) the drilling speed will not be sufficient. Next we glued the rotor to the the shaft adapter and drilled six holes for mounting both of them together. http://www.factorymation.com/FM50-2531skZ-Hch-IvD94pTyL3TNOKs7AbrioaAiz6EALw_wcB, https://sherline.com/product/33050-dc-motor-speed-control-units/, http://dealerselectric.com/FM50-101-C.asp, http://dealerselectric.com/L510-201-H1-N.asp. That's a way better speed range for these drill presses. The kit was very easy to install and all parts are heavy duty. So after drilling more holes, I got everything mounted and wired up everything I could until I mounted it on the drill press. 310 RPM -> 78 RPM Now as we have ripped off alot of weight so we took a step ahead and decided to go with the cordless setup by uisng onboard lithium pollymer batteries. I received it rather quickly, from a very nice and helpful sales rep (Skyler). I had a $59 Central Machinery (Harbor Freight) 5 speed 8 inch drill press which I decided to soup up. I will more than likely be hooking it up into a 240 volt line anyway I'm just curious. This is a 27 pole stator with three phase running across the motor. Buy it and have fun with your project. Now before we rip it a part, time to modify the motor. You can also see that the sheetmetal pulley tray is interfering with the installation of the rear pulley and belt. If I was really concerned, I would just go buy a factory VS drill press. Only pictures is not enough for a good referenceThanks! This is not unexpected youll see the fix later on. Converting that to VFD is certainly possible, but it would cost way more than the dp is worth. The frustration I was having at my old setting of 215 RPM was not only the excessive speed, but the fact that the cutter would drag and eventually stall-out halfway through the cut. In this instructable we are going to address all these problems and do our best to bring this beast to life again. the problem with using a starter is that it isn't designed for continuous duty. I added a 10 ampere mini circuit breaker to protect the dimmer but rarely trip it. Put the pulley I bought separately on the motor axle (I believe it was 13mm so I had to bore out my 1/2 inch pulley) which went over to the 8 inch RF pulley which turned the small supplied pulley. To sum it all up, this is a great kit! So we drilled holes at each end of the trigonal holder and cut off the supports. I couldn't figure out how to re-belt it for the other way. I had to build a mounting bracket for the motor as it was designed to be face mounted. Some combinations of pullies will require longer belts, but i was able to get an acceptable speed with the one provided and the 2 that came with the machine. Thankfully this time we got the rotor spining perfectly arroun the stator without touching it. I was almost ready to order one from EMotors Direct but $280 for a TEFC (totally enclosed fan cooled) motor from them. (In the next photo, the pulley stack is not installed yet) I really need to start collecting old hover boards.
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